Dunkirk 2025
Commemorative Cruise to Dunkirk
Preparations
Every five years since the first crossing in 1965, the Association of Dunkirk Little Ships has taken a flotilla to Dunkirk to commemorate the evacuation of the British Expeditionary Force from the town and adjoining beaches in May-June 1940. Covid stopped the crossing in 2020, so it has been ten years since the last event. This means that the remaining Little Ships are ten years older, and the number of crew who have had previous experience of the crossing is proportionally less. So, the 2025 Commemoration will challenge the boats and their crew possibly more than many previous crossings.
For Aquabelle, preparations started early in the Spring of 2025. With her engines replaced in 2020 and her hull prepared in 2023, most of the work focused on making sure she would look her best for the inevitable photographs, visitors and publicity. This meant stripping and varnishing much of her upper woodwork including wheelhouse, rubbing strips and, most significantly, her stained saloon sides. To do a good job on the latter, we needed to remove her eight rectangular windows, and so we took the opportunity (with some trepidation) to dismantle, re-plate the frames and re-glaze them prior to refitting them into the wood.
The details as to how this was done is described in a separate account, but the biggest problem was the poor quality of the original hole cutting for the windows and so the need for significant re-work to achieve a leak-free installation. Also, we found two windows installed upside down and on the wrong side and so replaced them in their correct positions!
The main impediment to finishing the woodwork was the wet weather during the Spring of 2025. At least two consecutive dry days are necessary to sand and varnish externally and another couple of days are essential to achieve the required number of coats. Although the first trial fit of the restored frame took place in early March, it was not until the middle of April that the windows could be finally installed in the suitably varnished saloon sides. By then, most of the other wood preparation was complete but some pieces such as grabrails were not done until early May. Both masts were stripped, stained and re-varnished, and a crosstree fitted to the foremast to better display pennants and the required French courtesy flag.
In parallel, cleaning and re-fitting curtains, bedding and other soft furnishings progressed as the damp winter slowly turned drier. Finally, food and drink cupboards were re-stocked, the water tank filled and black water tank emptied. Aquabelle was ready for her long voyage.
Crewing was complex as eleven individuals made themselves available for various legs of the event. Unfortunately, Christine (like Colin, a grandchild of the original owner of Aquabelle Benjamin Taylor) decided not to join us as she wanted to be near her sister who was very ill.
13th May 2025
Colin and Sue drove to Aquabelle from home and prepared lunch on board for Anna (a great granddaughter of Benjamin Taylor) and her husband Rob. Both had volunteered to help crew Aquabelle for the first two days voyage down the Thames. Slipping her mooring before lunch in pleasant sunny weather, all enjoyed an incident - free trip past Boveney, Romney, Old Windsor, Bell Weir and Penton Hook locks, finally getting to her mooring at Penton Hook Marina mid-afternoon. Our mooring was where fellow DLS “Breda” usually lives but we knew she was further down the Thames heading for Ramsgate. The crew ate on board as the adjacent Yacht Club was not open. We could try out our “pontoon steps”, newly made by Colin, for the first time.
14th May 2025
A reasonably relaxed 9.00 start saw Aquabelle heading further down river, locking through Chertsey, Shepperton, Sunbury and Molesey locks, then passing “Bindown” the house where Aquabelle was moored in 1939/40 when owned by Benjamin Taylor and where she was requisitioned for Operation Dynamo. We moored for lunch at Ravens Ait for an hour before arriving at Teddington Lock around 2.00pm. Teddington had become a major headache for our boats progressing downstream because the smaller Launch Lock normally used was under long term repair and all craft had to use the larger Barge Lock. This latter lock was found to be in poor condition, particularly the hydraulics for the sluices, so it could only be operated manually by Environment Agency staff. This meant that, instead of the normal 24-hour availability, the lock was only open during the working day. A consequence was that, for many days, the state of the tide and lock opening times were mismatched, making subsequent downriver travel difficult. Along with several other DLS we passed through the lock onto the tidal Thames with little problem (as it was before 5 pm), noting that the lockkeepers were using power drills to open and close the sluices!
Aquabelle was booked into St Katharine’s dock after 2pm the next day. Access from the Thames is only two hours either side of high water, which was between 2pm and 6pm on the 15th. Passing through Teddington after 9 o’clock would mean the river would be too shallow beyond Richmond when timed to hit the tidal window for St Kats.
Other boats were experiencing the same issue and, using WhatsApp, much communication was flashing to and fro. A solution was found by taking advantage of the generosity of Howard, who offered a mooring over the night of the 14th for the growing flotilla at his Boatshop Pontoon, just below Teddington Lock. As the remainder of the flotilla were heading further downstream the next day (to Queenborough) we decided that an early start down river would give us the advantage of an ebb tide. To avoid an early arrival at St Kats, we took up another generous offer to wait the tide for a few hours at Cadogan Pier in Chelsea by the pier manager who is an ADLS member.
So, with a viable plan, we spent the night at the Boatshop pier, said goodbye to Anna and Rob (able crew members and very good company), and welcomed son Stephen who would help us get to St Kats. We ate dinner with many of the ADLS crews at the nearby Tide End Cottage Pub, appropriately showing Dunkirk Little Ships returning from Operation Dynamo as the pub sign!
15th May 2025
Our early start was fixed at 5am. Unfortunately, another DLS, “Anne”, was moored outside us, so we had the delicate task of moving quietly off the mooring whilst holding Anne against the flow and pulling her back to take our place. This went very smoothly with the joint efforts of Stephen and Theo, a member of Anne’s crew (who spent the night aboard her and seemed not to mind the early awakening). So, we were at last in tidal waters! We passed around Richmond lock via the half tide weir and headed further downstream. After a couple of hours we reached Cadogan Pier and spotted a space in front of a beautiful classic yacht,” Sigrid of Chelsea” so we moored up for a late breakfast and eventually an early lunch. Residing on the other side of the pontoon was the DLS “Bluebird of Chelsea” which was not taking part in the 2025 Commemorations.
Timing it to reach St Kats around 2 pm we slipped our mooring at 1 o’clock and headed past the iconic buildings of Central London. Entering the Pool of London, we passed HMS Belfast and then under Tower Bridge, hoping to enter the St Kats lock right away. Unfortunately, it was already full so we had to wait about 45 minutes before we were allowed to enter. Mooring onto a floating buoy to wait would be challenging so Stephen at the helm decided to turn several loops under Tower Bridge and then alongside the Historic Pier, just downstream of the bridge. We finally entered the lock together with two sailing yachts and then made our way to our berth in the Western Basin, reversing into the pontoon mooring. Our meal for three that night was at a local Italian restaurant. Once the restaurants had closed for the night the dock was surprisingly peaceful.
16th May 2025
This was a rest and crew change day. Sue and Stephen headed to their respective homes via water bus and train and car. Colin checked Aquabelle over for her first trip to the sea for two years and awaited Derek, who was to crew Aquabelle for the next eleven days. On arrival in the afternoon Derek helped Colin erect her two tall masts and stow her Thames mast. Locking out was booked for 6.00am the next morning to catch the tide and ensure Ramsgate was reached in time to get into the inner harbour.
17th May 2025
Aquabelle locked out just a little bit later than planned and by 06.45 am she was heading down the Thames at around 10 knots aided by the tide. Colin practiced his newly learned radio communication skills at the Thames Barrier as Derek made toast for breakfast. Crossing the barrier at 07.25 am we noted that river traffic was very light. As the river widened our first excitement was just before 08.00 when we overtook a small flock of DLS as they also made their way down river, heading for Queenborough. The boats passed were “Margo II”, “L’Orage”, “Wanda”, “White Marlin”, “White Wing” and’ Deenar”, of course travelling at the speed of the slowest in the group.
The weather remained sunny and clear with only a small swell developing as the river became the estuary and we passed the entrance channel markers for the River Medway. A ham salad sandwich lunch was made and consumed off Herne Bay with the sea remaining relatively calm. We decided to take the inshore channel as the tide had turned and was beginning to rise, slowing Aquabelle down to around 7.5 knots. Around 2.00 pm with Margate becoming visible on our starboard bow we spotted another flotilla of DLS ahead, comprising of “Hilfranor”, “Quisisana”, “Nydia”, “MB278” and led by Jason in “Naiad Errant”. We decided to follow them rather than power past as we were all in good time to enter the inner harbour lock at Ramsgate.
The sea became a little choppier as we rounded North Foreland but it eased again as we reached the approach channel to Ramsgate. Fuel levels were good (Aquabelle had only used ¼ of her tank from Windsor), so we elected to proceed straight to our mooring as directed by the Harbour Master. This required passing the sea lock gates then taking a tight turn to starboard alongside the inner harbour wall before reaching a substantial group of DLS already moored in the corner of the harbour nearest the shops. Aquabelle was directed to turn and moor alongside DLS “Ryegate II”, a tight manoeuvre that was achieved without incident.
Being next to Ryegate II was somewhat surreal. We knew that she had been bought by a Dutchman a few years before and extensively restored in Germany, including a 2-metre extension to her stern. What was more poignant was knowing that Reigate II, then named “BenTruda”, was owned by Benjamin Taylor prior to his purchase of Aquabelle. So, two boats owned by Colin’s Grandfather before WW2 were moored side by side! Nicholas, Ryegate II’s owner, later invited us on board to see her interior. It was beautifully finished in authentic materials and very welcoming and comfortable. The only drawback (and possibly why Benjamin sold her) was restricted headroom in all cabins apart from the wheelhouse. Colin had previously communicated with Nicholas to give him colour ciné film of his boat taken by his family in 1938.
After a sunny and clear evening enhanced by a fish and chip supper, Colin and Derek spent the night on board. Again, the noise of the bars and cafes died down later in the evening, allowing the flotilla to enjoy a relatively peaceful mooring.
18th May 2025
Ramsgate certainly pulled out all the stops for their ADLS visitors. In the morning a military parade plus marching band passed just above Aquabelle en route to St George’s Church. Late afternoon a choir gathered on the quayside together with a small orchestra and a conductor who climbed aboard “Lady Lou”. Then a trumpeter appeared on a balcony behind, playing a duet with another trumpeter on the quayside. The choir then joined in to create a magical sound, transfixing both the boat crews and the large public audience that had gathered around. We also enjoyed a flying display by a Fairey Swordfish at what seemed to be extremely low speeds! Later the Little Ships were asked to join the concert by sounding their horns, firstly alone, then together with other boats in the harbour, all choreographed by a man on a barge waving blue and green flags! That evening, Derek and Colin enjoyed a superb buffet at the Royal Temple Yacht Club, with much more food than the guests could possibly consume.
19th May 2025
Later ADLS arrivals “Jeff”, a ferry boat and then “Ferry Nymph” an excursion boat, rafted up outside Aquabelle as space in the inner harbour was at a premium. Whilst Sue was on her way from Wiltshire by train to Ramsgate and Derek’s wife, Julie was driving from home by car, the crews were invited to enjoy a tot of rum on the quayside next to the “Medway Queen”. She is a large paddle steamer which saved many lives during Operation Dynamo and is currently undergoing a long restoration by volunteers. She was towed to Ramsgate to take part in the events and also to welcome visitors aboard. That evening, with Sue and Julie having joined us we met with other ADLS crew at the Royal Temple Yacht Club for evening drinks and to witness the sunset flag lowering ceremony. Later, friends of Derek and Julie joined us for dinner at an Italian Restaurant close to Aquabelle’s mooring run by an enthusiastic young Italian couple trying to establish their own business. The food was exceptional and they were invited to visit Aquabelle the next day.
20th May 2025
The weather forecast seemed promising so this, the last day in Ramsgate, was spent gathering the crew for the crossing and procuring food etc. for the days ahead. Following a service for ADLS at the Sailor’s Church an Operation Dynamo memorial was unveiled on the quayside just above Aquabelle. Led by our Commodore for the crossing, Kevin Finn, Prince Michael of Kent unveiled a plaque set in a stone block and also rang the bell of the “Crested Eagle”, a passenger steamer sunk at Dunkirk with considerable loss of life. A new hanger for the bell had been made for the occasion by an ADLS member. To our surprise, Aquabelle was asked to transport “Crested Eagle’s” bell and support across the channel the next day as it was to be donated to the Operation Dynamo Museum in Dunkirk. We accepted the bell with pleasure and honour, and placed it in the corner of the wheelhouse, but the support was too large so we unloaded it onto “Jeff”. Unfortunately, Sue and Julie missed the ceremony as they were busy gathering food for the next few days at a local supermarket.
In the afternoon a final Skippers Briefing at the Royal Temple confirmed that the crossing was to go ahead as planned the next day, and that some of the ADLS boats were required to leave the inner harbour that evening to ease congestion at the lock next morning. Aquabelle was not amongst these but the Commodore’s boat “Brown Owl” needed to move out as he would lead the flotilla. He skilfully extricated his boat from the quayside behind Aquabelle then “Jeff” and “Ferry Nymph” took the opportunity to leave our side and move into Brown Owl’s space for easier crew access. We then enjoyed a spirited flypast by a Spitfire.
Alain, former owner of Aquabelle, and his partner Michèle appeared on the quayside and were welcomed aboard. They seemed to approve of the many small and not so small changes to Aquabelle since their last visit in 2022. Cousin Christine also joined us for the evening as she was determined to watch us leave the following day before returning home. The final crew members for the crossing, Cousin David and his son-in-law Kent plus my son Ian, arrived after their respective working days. Alain, Michèle, Derek and Kent slept on board with the remainder of the crew using hotel accommodation nearby.
21st May 2025
The day of the crossing had arrived! All crew manged to get aboard Aquabelle in good time for a 06.00 am start. We also welcomed a RN Leading Hand and a Meridian TV reporter Joe Coshan on board for the crossing. The remaining ADLS boats in the Inner harbour were asked to slip their moorings and depart in strict order as managed over the radio. Colin was concerned how he would coax Aquabelle away from “Ryegate II” but her Dutch skipper said “don’t worry, I have two bow thrusters. I’ll just push us both out then you can let go and drift round” This worked splendidly and Aquabelle was able to turn and follow “Breda” out of the harbour. We would be in close company for the crossing and locking into Dunkirk. Entering the outer harbour, we were astonished at the size of the crowds lining the harbour walls at this early hour, and we all received a resounding cheer as we exited the port. Sue and Christine, who were amongst the spectators, enjoyed the Ramsgate Town Crier in full costume ringing his bell for every boat as they passed.
The following hour was needed to assemble the 64-boat flotilla in the required order. As Aquabelle was in the “Fast Fleet” at the rear, we spent some time at slow speed to ensure most of the boats were ahead of us. The sea was slight but choppy enough to start Aquabelle wallowing before she could pick up pace. At last we could get under way and, spotting “Breda’ ahead, we accelerated to maintain station with her and joined “Maimonde” and “Gay Venture” to complete our 4-boat echelon. By then it was 8 am.
The crossing was relatively uneventful although Michèle suffered from “mal de mer” and both the Leading Hand and the reporter were also uncomfortable with Aquabelle’s motion and promptly fell asleep! As planned, the “Fast Fleet” led by the second of seven P2000 small warships, accelerated as we reached the shipping lanes to shorten the overall footprint of the flotilla. We made a couple of minor course changes to pass the Goodwin Sands and avoid the commercial shipping, all boats obeying the radio instructions promptly and without issue. We had the spectacular view of two Thames Barges “Greta” and “Pudge” just astern, together with the beautiful ketch “Tahilla” and the larger steamers “Llanthony” and “Bluebird 1938”.
As we passed Gravelines, just along the French coast from Dunkirk, the “Fast Fleet” was instructed to accelerate again and head for the larger Watier Lock at the entrance to the basin. Entering the lock at about 3.00pm French time, we rafted up alongside “Breda” as instructed who, in turn, was moored to one of our seven escort P2000’s, HMS Explorer. We hoped to have an early release into the inner port but it was not to be as we had to wait for some of the larger, slower, boats including the two Thames Barges and the steam tug “Challenge”. This took more than an hour – ample time for a now recovered Joe to interview Colin about Aquabelle and his family. At last the lock was full and we were slowly lifted about two metres.
When leaving the lock we were told to wait outside until the remainder of the flotilla had exited the smaller Trystram lock. A delayed bridge lift added to the growing small boat traffic jam. Waiting became increasingly difficult as the wind had strengthened on our port quarter and we had to turn into the wind for stability. The larger boats, particularly “Challenge” and Bluebird” radioed that they were in an unsafe position and were eventually given permission to interweave between the emerging smaller boats.
At 18.45 at last we made the sharp double turn to port under another lift bridge to enter the Bassin de Commerce. Cheering crowds lined both sides of the quay, with Sue on our starboard side having arrived at Dunkirk much earlier via the Dover - Calais ferry. Friends from our home marina were also hailing us on our port side. With this distraction Colin nearly missed seeing that the swirling wind was driving all the boats towards the port wall (some even clipped it). Watching Aquabelle’s course, Sue was convinced that we were going to drop someone off at the quayside! With a burst of throttle Colin avoided the danger and so Aquabelle made her way across the Bassin to the allocated mooring, again rafting up alongside “Breda” as per the plan.
Our first job was to raise our flags and Kent took responsibility for ensuring they were in the correct order as his father was a Naval Officer! We later found out that this was visible in the background of a TV interview of our Commodore, Kevin. We were finally able to relax a little and elected to eat on board that evening. Colin offered to cook what was left in Aquabelle’s stores so all but Alain and Michèle, (who returned to their apartment) were served ham omelette to use up the 18 eggs that happened to be on board owing to some earlier over-purchasing!
22nd May 2025
No post-crossing lie in! All the ADLS crews were required to report to the passport office to get their passports stamped; this was organised in alphabetical order for boat name. So Aquabelle was almost first in the queue at 09.00. Happily, the office was only a few minutes’ walk away from our mooring and, with the bureaucracy done, we could finally relax. We had electrical power but the skipper of Breda suggested we buy a “splitter” to allow others to use the limited shore supply. Ian volunteered to buy one from a chandlery a couple of miles away and dutifully came back with a suitable purchase. It was never actually used at Dunkirk but will remain on Aquabelle as it will inevitably come in handy for marina visits. The itinerary mentioned possible visits from French schoolchildren in the morning but these did not materialise, at least in our part of the pontoon. In the afternoon a short trip by coach was arranged for crew to witness a ceremony of commemoration at a war cemetery in the outskirts of Dunkirk, Alain, Michèle, Derek and David attended.
With an anxious watch of the weather forecast, our organisers were of the opinion that the planned return crossing on the 26th was looking increasingly dubious and believed a small weather window could be available on the 23rd. A list of those wanting to return early was drawn up and the departure from the Bassin planned for 07.45h the next morning.
In the evening we decided to eat out and Alain organised for all to go to a restaurant on the far side of the Bassin de Commerce. It was in a modern glazed structure by the quayside and, in moving to our table at a window, Alain spotted the owner and crew of “Tahilla” at another table. Coincidentally, both Tahilla’s owner and Alain had properties on the same street in Chinon and therefore had met on previous occasions. Exchanging pleasantries, Alain arranged mutual crew visits to the two boats the next day. The meal was somewhat disappointing as Alain insisted on a set menu of limited choice and Sue picked a French interpretation of fish and chips, a meal she judged to be well inferior to the British version.
Once again, Kent and Derek slept on board with the remainder returning to their various hotels.
23rd May 2025
In the event, those attempting an early crossing had to turn back owing to the weather in the Channel. ADLS Secretary Heather had the unwelcome task of re-booking all those who had cancelled their tables for the Return Supper on Saturday. The main event in the morning was a Reception for ADLS crews and the RN at Dunkirk Town Hall. All gathered in a large hall with most standing but some seats available. Colin and Derek represented Aquabelle and managed to bag two seats and had a good view of the speeches by the Mayor of Dunkirk, Prince Michael of Kent and ADLS Commodore, Kevin Finn. Included in the ceremony was the donation of commemorative plaques to the ADLS Committee and to the skippers of the seven Royal Naval warships which accompanied the flotilla. In addition it was announced that the “Crested Eagle” bell and stand would be donated to the Operation Dynamo Museum in Dunkirk.
After the proceedings all moved to an adjacent room for a buffet and to collect our individual commemorative plaques. After a glass of wine and some small pieces of food, Colin went to the table where plaques were being distributed and signed for the one allocated to Aquabelle. He would admit to being disappointed, largely because the style was modern and made from coloured stainless steel. Although attractive as a design, it was starkly different to the two other Commemorative Crossing plaques that adorned Aquabelle’s wheelhouse.
As arranged the previous day, Tahilla’s owner, family members and skipper visited Aquabelle. All admired the authenticity and general “feel” that had been retained through her long life and were particularly impressed by the family collection of pre-war photographs and films.
The evening event involved a brisk walk to another part of the Bassin complex next to the Operation Dynamo Museum to witness the inauguration of a monument to the civilian victims of the Battle of Dunkirk. The air was chilly and windy and the various speeches were difficult to follow. Despite this, there was a strong contingent from ADLS and the Navy to complement a group of French sailors. Two plaques were unveiled representing the youngest British soldier who was killed during the fighting and a young French woman who survived.
24th May 2025
While waiting for the arrival of Stephen and family by car and ferry from home Sue and Colin walked the short distance to the end of the Bassin to visit a temporary museum. This was established by one man to commemorate his family and other civilians in Dunkirk by telling stories of the roles they played during the battle to defend the city and afterwards. Talking to the owner, he was keen to show us all the details and afterwards gave us a book covering many of the stories. We then walked along the quay to pay a return visit to Tahilla. We were stunned by the quality of the woodwork, fittings and fabrics after her recent restoration. Her layout seemed a bit quirky as the master suite was only accessible from the remainder of the boat via the aft deck.
Stephen and family eventually arrived mid-afternoon, having already visited their rented apartment in the centre of Dunkirk. They had endured a day of long delays, mainly arising from knock-on effects from a vehicle accident at the entrance to Dover Port.
The weather forecast was continuing to be of concern to all and a contingency plan was set up to allow the fleet to stay in the Bassin de Commerce until Saturday 31st May when decent weather was expected. Some of the flotilla hoped to use a small weather window for a crossing back to Ramsgate early on the 26th, as originally scheduled, and Aquabelle’s crew elected to join this group. Some later dropped out and so the group finally comprised “Naiad Errant”, “Tahilla”, “Elvin” and “Bluebird 1938” as well as Aquabelle. We planned to leave the Bassin Sunday afternoon and move to a tidal mooring at the “Grande Large” Marina at the entrance to the Dunkirk harbour to allow an easy exit to the sea the next morning without the need for bridge lifts or locks.
In the evening Colin, Sue, Alain, Michèle and Kent walked to the Town hall to take one of the coaches heading to the Return Supper at the Villa Blanche. The remainder of the crew chose to eat locally. The meal, for at least 300 people, was surprisingly good and, unlike the same event in 2015, the service kept to time past the serving of teas and coffees. We had some rousing speeches, particularly from our Commodore, and the giving of awards to our accompanying RN skippers. Also celebrated were the two DLS which had taken part in all Commemorative Crossings since 1965: Wanda and L’Orage. Kent took Christine’s place at the table and was resigned to eat her menu choice (which he was not keen on). Happily another guest on our table could not make the event and so Kent swapped his choice for that of the missing party. In the event he managed to consume the starter and main course of both!
25th May 2025
Those planning to depart on Monday needed their passports stamped. A session was arranged at the “Grande Large” Marina in the afternoon and so Aquabelle’s crew walked the mile or so to find the office. (Stephen had less of a walk as he and family were in the vicinity to look at the famous “Mole” pier which played a large part in the evacuation in 1940).
With passports duly stamped and the hike back completed, we later walked a short distance to the quayside next to “Brown Owl” for a service and sunset ceremony with the RN contingent and other military personnel which included singing by the Belgian “Military Wives”.
Around 4.00 pm Aquabelle, Elvin, Naiad Errant and Tahilla slipped their moorings and waited for the bridge at the Bassin entrance to lift. On board Aquabelle for this trip to the tidal marina were Colin, Sue, David, Derek, Kent, Ian, Stephen and Stephen’s family Chloe, Joseph, Edward and Harry. As we passed under the bridge we were surprised and honoured to be cheered by a group of Naval Cadets raising their caps whilst lining the quayside. We followed Naiad Errant out of the basin complex and into the Trystram Lock. This had chains for our ropes because the bollards were too high to reach and the walls were very rough and covered in shellfish, making the process of staying in the right position a bit of a challenge. Eventually the gates opened and we made a tight turn into the Grande Large Marina and were asked to raft up alongside a modern British yacht who was part of the Dunkirk 2025 supporting group based at Penton Hook Yacht Club. Leaving Derek, Ian and Kent on board we walked back to our various hotels for the night.
26th May 2025
Jason, skipper of Naiad Errant believed a 0430 start (local) would be best for the crossing and so those crew who stayed in hotels had to make their way to Aquabelle in the dark. Unfortunately for Colin and David, a bridge on their route had been lifted, requiring a 10-minute detour which meant that they only just avoided being late after some brisk walking. The crew on board had readied the boat so we slipped on time and followed Naiad Errant into the dawn.
The sea state was disappointingly choppy and, as we crossed the sandbanks outside the port, the motion of the boat became uncomfortable rather quickly. Naiad Errant’s stern light frequently disappeared and we could just make out clouds of spray from her bow. Tahilla followed some distance astern. After an hour we received an ominous radio call from Jason saying that he had an electrical fire on board that needed an extinguisher to put out. Shortly after, he radioed that he was turning back to Dunkirk as a consequence of the fire and the effect the seas were having on his (only 32ft long) boat. After a brief discussion, we elected to continue the crossing with only Tahilla as company. Later we heard that it was the socket for Jason’s coffee machine that had caught fire and he couldn’t carry on crossing the Channel without access to an espresso!
As dawn broke to a beautiful sunrise, we had already crossed the shallow waters and moved towards the shipping lanes. The motion of Aquabelle was still uncomfortable at times and she occasionally buried her bow into the coming waves. We found out that the windscreen, although largely rainproof, leaked when subject to a lashing spray of salt water! On a couple of occasions we even had seawater coming through the sliding sunroof. On the plus side, the weather was sunny and temperate. The shipping lanes were crossed without incident around 07.00 but we found it more comfortable to head a little south of our intended route to keep Aquabelle’s sturdy bow into the prevailing waves. As the White Cliffs of Dover became more visible and we had some shelter from the Kent coast we turned further north to skirt the Goodwin Sands and line up into the entrance channel for Ramsgate. We spotted Bluebird 1938 ahead of us, which had left Dunkirk later and crossed more directly and at a faster speed. As we were maintaining a decent rate of 7 to 8 knots we reached Ramsgate harbour by 10.45, the crossing taking 6 ¼ hours in total.
We asked permission to enter the harbour and moor up onto the fuel barge. This was precautionary as we still had over ½ a tankful left. With an additional 306 litres into her tanks we moved Aquabelle to an outer harbour pontoon, mooring ahead of Tahilla who had managed to get well ahead of us. Although Ian, Kent and Stephen were leaving for their various homes later, we decided to have a late breakfast at the large Wetherspoons in the Royal Pavillion on the other side of the harbour.
As planned, Sue had left Dunkirk in Chloe and family’s car and so returned to Ramsgate via the Dover ferry. With Stephen rejoining Chloe, and Ian and Kent leaving for their respective homes, Sue was able to join us again in the evening together with the remaining crew of Colin, Derek and David. We elected to eat on board before Colin and Sue headed for their hotel.
27th May 2025
Derek had calculated the optimum time to head back up the Thames was around 07.45 to catch the most tidal flow upriver. So with a reasonably comfortable departure time from the hotel Colin left Sue to return home by train and proceeded to Aquabelle. David and Derek had prepared her for the eventual passing under London bridges by removing her two large masts and erecting the small “Thames Mast” to fly her flags. Cleared to slip our moorings by Ramsgate Harbourmaster we crossed the harbour entrance at 07.50 and turned North against a tide of around 1.5 knots.
The run to North Foreland was almost completely calm and we passed the headland after only 40 minutes. As we turned West the sea became much more agitated because we had a strong headwind (around 40mph forecast) against a following tide. Our speed was accelerating with the tidal push and we passed the Swale Estuary at 11.00 and crossed under the QE2 Bridge at 14.40. Around 16.10pm we crossed the Thames Barrier and reached Tower Bridge just over an hour later. Our destination for the night was Cadogan Pier as the manager Jez had again very kindly offered any DLS free overnight moorings. We chose the same spot as we had enjoyed when heading down the Thames, in front of” Sigrid of Chelsea”. David decided that this was a good time to leave for home as there were excellent transport connections close to the pier.
28th May 2025
We needed to delay our journey upriver until the inward tide was running strongly to avoid grounding on the long stretch towards Richmond Lock. Checking the tables, Colin calculated the optimum time to be around 1 pm and so we had an early lunch before heading again upstream. The remaining cruise up the Thames was very pleasant with dry, sunny weather. Although we reached Richmond Lock around 14.20, the weir was shut and we enquired about entering the lock. We were advised to wait as the weir would be opened in 20 minutes. This proved to be remarkably accurate as the lights permitting the weir crossing turned green at exactly 14.40 and so we headed upriver again towards Teddington.
Approaching Teddington Lock we saw it was full so we moored on the waiting pontoon and Colin walked to the lock to see what was going on. The Lock keeper was very pleased to see Aquabelle and enquired what had happened to the rest of the flotilla. By the time Colin had related the story the lock was available and so Colin returned to Aquabelle to enter the lock. All went very smoothly and we entered the non-tidal Thames for the first time in two weeks. When we were approaching Hampton Court we contacted Peter, who had arranged our mooring for the night at the Thames Motor Yacht Club. He directed us to tie up alongside the riverbank opposite the Clubhouse. This we did after a tight passage down a narrow channel between moored boats. Derek had been informing Julie of our progress upriver and she timed her drive from home perfectly, reaching the club only a little later than Aquabelle. Derek cleared his kit from his cabin and parted with Julie, leaving Colin alone on board. The clubhouse bar was open so Colin wandered over to chat to club members. Surprisingly, some remembered that Colin had given a talk there in 2015 about Aquabelle and his family links to the Club.
29th May 2025
With a shortage of crew to help get Aquabelle further up river, Colin was very grateful that Stephen volunteered to fill the gap. Setting off early from his home in Wiltshire he drove to the TMYC. Another Member had already lent Colin his car park “blipper” so Stephen was able to park next to Aquabelle. Slipping her moorings at 09.00, Colin gingerly reversed between the moored boats and eventually reached the open river and turned to enter Molesey Lock.
They took the opportunity to test a new two-way radio for communication whilst on board. It proved to be very helpful when locking, not only for confirming that lines and fenders were secure, but also for occasions when the lock was self-service. The range was sufficient for one of the crew to walk to the lock and talk to the skipper about water levels and when the gates would be opening.
After Molesey Lock good progress was made upriver. Sunbury and Shepperton lock were passed in quick time, about 15 minutes per lock, then Chertsey where a seal was spotted swimming in the river with a large fish in its mouth! Penton Hook and Bell Weir Locks were managed just a little slower, only Old Windsor Lock required a little wait. Romney Lock was passed in 25 minutes and finally Boveney Lock only took 5 minutes with a very helpful lock keeper.
Although we approached Windsor Marina at 3.40 pm, we decided that it would be sensible to first pump-out the black water tank. With that chore completed, Aquabelle was safely tied up at her usual mooring after a cruise lasting 16 days. All that was needed to finish the day was for Colin to drive Stephen back to Hampton Court to collect his car – a 90 minute round trip!
Reflecting on the event, which lasted 16 days for Aquabelle but took months to prepare and organise, it was occasionally challenging but also exhilarating and satisfying. The return crossing itself was possibly a little too exciting and the complex planning of crewing throughout the event proved to be a moving target. Several of the “Little Ship” owners had said it was a relief that it only took place every 5 years! But all the efforts and problems were forgotten when crossing the Channel surrounded by more than 60 similar vessels with amazing public support both in Ramsgate and Dunkirk. Here’s to 2030!